Comments on: Winterize thyself http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/ Nothing To Lose But Our Chains! Sun, 09 Oct 2011 19:38:08 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 By: RocBike.com | The RocBike Review » Ten Reasons Why Bikes Are Better for Winter Commuting http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/comment-page-1/#comment-2382 RocBike.com | The RocBike Review » Ten Reasons Why Bikes Are Better for Winter Commuting Wed, 19 Dec 2007 00:57:20 +0000 http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/#comment-2382 [...] easy to understand why cars in colder climates depreciate faster. Bikes basically just require a quick rinse after the ride an an occasional deep clean and oil change (on your chain) to keep in good working [...] [...] easy to understand why cars in colder climates depreciate faster. Bikes basically just require a quick rinse after the ride an an occasional deep clean and oil change (on your chain) to keep in good working [...]

]]> By: Stretch http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/comment-page-1/#comment-2267 Stretch Wed, 12 Dec 2007 16:12:22 +0000 http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/#comment-2267 Try using one of the pump sprayers for yard goods as a powerwasher. Most hold 1.5 gallons of water and the pressure is adjustable to some extent with how much you pump it up. Use a mild dish soap sparingly. 2 fills one to wash and one to rinse. Try using one of the pump sprayers for yard goods as a powerwasher. Most hold 1.5 gallons of water and the pressure is adjustable to some extent with how much you pump it up. Use a mild dish soap sparingly. 2 fills one to wash and one to rinse.

]]> By: Jack http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/comment-page-1/#comment-2252 Jack Wed, 12 Dec 2007 03:23:42 +0000 http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/#comment-2252 Thanks for the comments about the hoseless hose and Framesaver. I use a big bucket only because the large volume of water makes it possible to do the job extravagantly with only one trip from sink to front yard. But the hoseless hose sounds very efficient. And actually, I've used WD-40 for frame protection only because it's ubiquitous and easy to apply. Though it's true that WD-40 doesn't have much lubricating or rustproofing power, it can be applied often and without prep or clean-up. I suppose some light general-use oil in a spray can would be better (and still cheap). But for real protection, I've been dripping some Phil's Tenacious Oil down the interior of my seat tube. You can manipulate the flow by hold the bike and turning it so the oil will cover the maximum area. (This oil is also good for general lubing of the seatpost, which you need to do anyway.) And as I've said, through years of sloppy winters my efforts seem to have paid off: no detectable interior (or exterior) rust. Of course, if I had a super expensive road bike with thin-walled cro-moly tubing, as opposed to my fleet of brick-shithouse "entry-level" (but still wondrous) machines, I might take more heroic measures to make sure every square millimeter of the tube interiors was maxi-protected. Thanks for the comments about the hoseless hose and Framesaver. I use a big bucket only because the large volume of water makes it possible to do the job extravagantly with only one trip from sink to front yard. But the hoseless hose sounds very efficient. And actually, I’ve used WD-40 for frame protection only because it’s ubiquitous and easy to apply. Though it’s true that WD-40 doesn’t have much lubricating or rustproofing power, it can be applied often and without prep or clean-up. I suppose some light general-use oil in a spray can would be better (and still cheap). But for real protection, I’ve been dripping some Phil’s Tenacious Oil down the interior of my seat tube. You can manipulate the flow by hold the bike and turning it so the oil will cover the maximum area. (This oil is also good for general lubing of the seatpost, which you need to do anyway.) And as I’ve said, through years of sloppy winters my efforts seem to have paid off: no detectable interior (or exterior) rust. Of course, if I had a super expensive road bike with thin-walled cro-moly tubing, as opposed to my fleet of brick-shithouse “entry-level” (but still wondrous) machines, I might take more heroic measures to make sure every square millimeter of the tube interiors was maxi-protected.

]]> By: Smudgemo http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/comment-page-1/#comment-2246 Smudgemo Tue, 11 Dec 2007 19:28:55 +0000 http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/#comment-2246 While the WD-40 would certainly be better than nothing, I think some Framesaver or even boiled linseed oil would be much better since it is sticky and heavier. I have no experience with real winter riding, but I suspect that a good coating in the fall ought to last until spring. If not, you can reapply to the easy-to-reach places just as quickly as WD-40. Keep the WD-40 on hand, though. They recommend it to clean up the over-spray and drips. While the WD-40 would certainly be better than nothing, I think some Framesaver or even boiled linseed oil would be much better since it is sticky and heavier. I have no experience with real winter riding, but I suspect that a good coating in the fall ought to last until spring. If not, you can reapply to the easy-to-reach places just as quickly as WD-40. Keep the WD-40 on hand, though. They recommend it to clean up the over-spray and drips.

]]> By: Ted http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/comment-page-1/#comment-2241 Ted Tue, 11 Dec 2007 16:56:48 +0000 http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/#comment-2241 Hey Jack, Thanks for the interesting notes. Do you think a canister with warm water and a spray bottle top would be effective? The idea of hauling buckets of water and/or an indoor to outdoor hose don't appeal to me. Ted- Hey Jack,

Thanks for the interesting notes. Do you think a canister with warm water and a spray bottle top would be effective? The idea of hauling buckets of water and/or an indoor to outdoor hose don’t appeal to me.

Ted-

]]> By: Adam http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/comment-page-1/#comment-2240 Adam Tue, 11 Dec 2007 15:13:29 +0000 http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/#comment-2240 Those lights are on my bike - the light kit is called the Down Low Glow. It's available at <a href="http://rockthebike.com/" rel="nofollow">Rock the Bike</a>! Those lights are on my bike – the light kit is called the Down Low Glow. It’s available at Rock the Bike!

]]> By: john http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/comment-page-1/#comment-2235 john Tue, 11 Dec 2007 13:20:18 +0000 http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/#comment-2235 In your youtube a couple of stories down, there is a bike with a very visible green light. Can you give me the info on that light. I really like how visible it is and plan to get one. In your youtube a couple of stories down, there is a bike with a very visible green light. Can you give me the info on that light. I really like how visible it is and plan to get one.

]]> By: Jake http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/comment-page-1/#comment-2219 Jake Tue, 11 Dec 2007 03:35:42 +0000 http://www.rocbike.com/2007/12/10/winterize-thyself/#comment-2219 Try this for a "cordless (hoseless) hose" when washing off all that salt and grime: Take a regular 2 liter bottle and finish the soda. Remove the cap and drill a small 1/8-3/32 hole in the center of said cap. Fill 2 liter with warm of even hot water, replace the cap and head outside to spray off your bike. Easy, cheap and it works. Try this for a “cordless (hoseless) hose” when washing off all that salt and grime: Take a regular 2 liter bottle and finish the soda. Remove the cap and drill a small 1/8-3/32 hole in the center of said cap. Fill 2 liter with warm of even hot water, replace the cap and head outside to spray off your bike. Easy, cheap and it works.

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